Tabanan is a regency (Kabupaten) in Bali, Indonesia. Tabanan Regency is relatively underdeveloped (compared to Badung and Denpasar to the east), with an area of 1,013.88 km2 and a population of 461,630 in 2020. The town of Tabanan serves as its regency seat. Tanah Lot is one of Tabanan’s most famous tourist sites.
If you’re looking for the ‘real Bali’ despite the rampant modernisation, Tabanan Regency might be the place to go. Tourism gives way to brilliant green rice terraces and small lanes surrounded by intricate stone walls of traditional home compounds within a short drive from the famed Tanah Lot. Local markets are brimming with fresh goods and hardworking locals, with no Bintang shirt in sight, yet there is undoubtedly luxury on this southern tip of Indonesia’s hottest island.
Districts of Tabanan Regency
| Name | Area in km2 | Number of villages |
|---|---|---|
| Baturiti | 99.17 | 12 |
| Kediri | 53.60 | 15 |
| Kerambitan | 42.39 | 15 |
| Marga | 44.79 | 16 |
| Penebel | 141.98 | 18 |
| Pupuan | 179.02 | 14 |
| Selemadeg | 52.05 | 10 |
| Selemadeg Barat (West Selemadeg) | 120.15 | 11 |
| Selemadeg Timur (East Selemadeg) | 54.78 | 10 |
| Tabanan (district) | 51.40 | 12 |
| Totals | 1,013.88 | 133 |
What to do in Tabanan Regency
Cobbled paths wind past picturesque settlements before cutting through vast rice farms. You can’t help but slow down to see the odd antics of ducks waddling in the watery fields. When you arrive at the resort, the emphasis stays on nature, with a magnificent tree-lined road leading you softly into luxury.
A black, grey, cream, and white colour scheme spotlights the volcanic sands and crashing waves of a wild beach backdrop. This brings out the vibrant green of the grass-framed infinity pool and nearby rice fields, stimulating the senses.
Rice Fields
The charm of Bali’s expansive rice paddies is well known, and Tabanan’s Jatiluwih terraces are among the most magnificent. With sloping, terraced views for as far as the eye can see and secluded pathways to immerse oneself in the natural splendour, exploring here can take a couple of hours or days.
The UNESCO-listed area is part of the subak, a 9th-century irrigation system that supports the emerald scenery of steep slopes and patchwork farms. A subak, in and of itself, represents the harmony of spirit, people, and nature. Farmers in this Balinese ideology collaborate to achieve equitable water allocation.
Mount Batukaru
The relatively difficult walk to Bali’s second-highest mountain rewards spectacular views all the way to Java. Mount Batukaru, an extinct volcano, dominates the landscape of Tabanan like a king on a throne. However, the number of hikers per day is limited, evident when immersed in the dense rainforest and seeing many more monkeys than people.
A succession of temples lines the unsealed trail to the peak as a sacred location. Local inhabitants believe that after they die, their spirits will return to the mountain. This contributes to a mystical ambience beneath the forest canopy, which also serves as a wildlife conservation area. Mount Batukaru is an all-day trek, so arrive early, preferably between May and September.
Villages and Temples in Tabanan Regency
Despite the chaos of Bali traffic, the traditional features of Tabanan are easy to reach and best seen from a motorbike or scooter. Drive across rolling hills, whiz past pockets of rainforest, pause by rice paddies, and arrive in real towns full of cheerful inhabitants balancing fruit on their heads.
Tanah Lot is one of Bali’s most respected and visited temples in Tabanan. The secret to seeing the stunning 16th-century sea temple is to arrive at 7 a.m., well before the flood of tour buses. The reclining white Buddha statue of Vihara Dharma Giri can be found in the rural town of Pupuan. Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, located in the chilly hills of Bedugul, reflects wonderfully on the mirror-like surface of Lake Bratan.
Beaches full of Black Sand
White beaches are fantastic for relaxing, but black sand is ideal for taking images. The coast of Tabanan is strewn with volcanic sands that sparkle like diamonds in the light. Vast, dark beaches stretch for miles without a human in sight, making them ideal for quiet strolls with nothing but the thundering waves for company. They aren’t strictly “laze on the sand all day” locations but distinct ocean vistas that substantially enhance the surrounding green.
Balian Beach is nestled between a tranquil town and a rugged promontory. Powerful rips necessitate swimming in the shallows, but continuous swell attracts surfers all year. Although developers have yet to swarm this region, the ambience is old-school Bali.
Tourism Control
To protect the island’s most prominent agricultural field area of 53,000 hectares, the Tabanan Regency Administration would no longer allow the development of star-rated and city hotels unless tourism facilities with a commitment to environmental conservation would be permitted with 30 percent of buildings and 70 percent left naturally as paddy field or plantation. Beyond the protected zone, the administration has designated a 300-hectare protected paddy field zone with a 100-hectare habitation zone. Visitors can explore the 300-hectare park by foot (approximately 312 hours of walking) or by e-bike, which the local people have been organising since 2017.
Tabanan Regency Climate
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Average high °C (°F) | 30.4 (86.7) | 30.5 (86.9) | 30.6 (87.1) | 31.1 (88.0) | 30.8 (87.4) | 30.1 (86.2) | 29.4 (84.9) | 29.5 (85.1) | 30.3 (86.5) | 31.1 (88.0) | 31.2 (88.2) | 30.8 (87.4) | 30.5 (86.9) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 26.3 (79.3) | 26.3 (79.3) | 26.2 (79.2) | 26.3 (79.3) | 26.0 (78.8) | 25.3 (77.5) | 24.9 (76.8) | 24.9 (76.8) | 25.6 (78.1) | 26.3 (79.3) | 26.5 (79.7) | 26.4 (79.5) | 25.9 (78.6) |
| Average low °C (°F) | 22.2 (72.0) | 22.2 (72.0) | 21.9 (71.4) | 21.6 (70.9) | 21.2 (70.2) | 20.5 (68.9) | 20.4 (68.7) | 20.4 (68.7) | 20.9 (69.6) | 21.5 (70.7) | 21.9 (71.4) | 22.1 (71.8) | 21.4 (70.5) |
| Average rainfall mm (inches) | 314 (12.4) | 260 (10.2) | 221 (8.7) | 102 (4.0) | 111 (4.4) | 110 (4.3) | 135 (5.3) | 69 (2.7) | 108 (4.3) | 213 (8.4) | 237 (9.3) | 298 (11.7) | 2,178 (85.7) |